People.

When I came to China, I was prepped and ready for all kinds of things. I was ready for the art scams, and ready for the prices, ready for bargaining, and ready to avoid the multitudes of beggars. But today I learned something new.

I set out today to find a Bank of China in Guangzhou. I arrived downtown at Gongyuanqian Station via the subway. I got out and headed in the direction I thought a bank might be in. I walked past a market, past a million different shops, past a beggar on the sidewalk, and then I came to a small square downtown.

On one side of the street there was a temple, or at least what seemed to be one, while on the other was a road. As I walked past the temple, a monk (or at least what seemed to be a monk)dressed in classic (though modernly fabricated) garb approached me and handed me a little red package. I was reluctant to accept it, because I know that 99% of the time these things are scams. Sure enough, when I started to walk away the monk addressed me and held out an english piece of paper describing why he wanted my money. Now, I know that scams here are complex, so I still wasn't convinced, and I'm still not. However, I decided that I could give some money since I was feeling generous. I gave the monk ten yuan and then told him that I would return with more once I went to the bank. Again, usually a bad idea. I didn't really know if I should return or not. I ended up having to go back to the hostel to find my passport anyway, but in the end, after I had made my exchange I decided I would give the monk the full sum I had written on the paper (50 yuan). This is still a safe amount, since it's no more than $9 US. From the bank I had to go get my passport at the hostel, which I did, and then walked back up toward Gongyuanqian and ran into the monk again. I gave him the extra money, and he thanked me. But that wasn't the end of it all.

Another monk came after me and gave me what seemed to be a simple wooden-bead necklace. I accepted it and put it in my pocket. Now, he started to follow me. I walked a little faster, and told him in Hanyu that I had already given the other man the only money I intended to give. Still, he wouldn't leave. I'd had this happen once before, at the Great Wall. People would be followed for kilometers by sellers of souvenirs. I decided that I would out-walk him (what I did on the wall). I walked faster. He walked faster.

After a block or two of non-stop pulling on my pocket I was getting annoyed. I told myself to accept it as just part of my experience. I kept walking. I told him over and over that I had given the other man my money. He continued. We walked for what must have been a kilometer in total. Once, some Chinese men saw us and tried to stop him (without continued success). Either they knew something I didn't or they just didn't have the time to continue. He came after me again. I saw a subway station up ahead and went straight for it. He went down the stairs. I was very annoyed by now. Finally, after reaching the station I thought of something. I had put my hand in my pocket, and felt the necklace still there. Hmm...I took it out and asked him if he wanted it (in Hanyu). He immediatly reached out for it, and stopped his pursuit. When I got on the train it made me think.

Was this guy the real deal? Was I being callous, or dumb for not understanding his speech? I was extremely rattled by the whole event one way or another. At least I had realized that it was the necklace he wanted. Then again, had he just been wanting the money and only then decided that I had symbolically 'given up'? I still don't know for sure, but this experience taught me something. When you have understood a situation, you can act accordingly. Be cautious, but do not be callous even with those people you meet who may deserve it until you understand that you must be so. As a tourist, one of the most powerful weapons you wield is simple tolerance (and sometimes purposeful concentration on that which will free you of your follower).