Being the Tourist

Beijing is about making a connection between history of China's ancient culture, and the future represented by cities like Shanghai, and Hong Kong. So, after spending some time getting used to my lodgings and the surrounding area, I decided to set out on foot to see the city. To this effect, I headed deeper into the network of hutong that led away from the hostel.

This took me away from the cleaner, more tourist-friendly areas of the hutong neighborhoods (more on this later). I walked by decrepit buildings whose courtyards were still filled with the refuse of their previous populace. Cars got rarer, and the classic mode of transportation that China became famous for: the bicycle, became even more prevalent. Along with the two-wheeled variety, there are three-wheeled carts that are used by much of the local neighborhoods to transport almost everything, including people, cardboard, garbage, and all manner of other goods. Heavily loaded doesn't even begin to cover the size of the loads I've seen (and I haven't see the largest).

Anyhow, I made it to the first big street, which just so happened to be close to a bridge that led to Jing Shan park: and a famously grand view of the Forbidden City. 'Shan' is the Hanyu word for 'mountain', though in this case, the mountain was man-made. All of the dirt that makes up the mountain itself was taken from the moat that surrounds the Forbidden City, and hauled manually there, giving its height even more grandeur. As if this isn't plenty, the walk through the park to and up the mountain (hill) is serenaded by groups of locals, singing, with conductors or radios, old songs that sound like they were recorded during china's Mao years. Very classic.

I walked up the mountain, surprised to find a series of pagodas at the top (restored, of course), the most magnificent of which housed a gigantic statue of a Buddha. Though the fog and smog was rather bad that day, the view was still definitely an astonishing one - especially for someone who hasn't seen the Forbidden City with their own eyes before.

I continued walking through the park, down the other side of the mountain, and then over to Bei Hai park. This one was more geared toward tourists, and there were vendors and ticket booths everywhere. One refreshing thing did happen as I was walking through there though: I paused to take a picture of a round doorway, and a girl decided to jump through. I didn't even attempt to time the shot - it just, happened that way. I continued through the park, saw some old trees and buildings including the 'Round City' near the exit towards the Forbidden City itself.

Then, I decided to do the walk to the Forbidden City. Down the wall, past endless numbers of convenience stores and gates, I walked to the western gate, and then down the access road to the southern gate, where I paid the 60 yuan entrance price quite willingly. Dodge a few 'guides', avoid a scam artist or two, and you're in.

First thing I'd say is: HUGE. The initial courtyard is not large, it's gigantic. There are paths in the stone that have been restored, and most of the roofs have been as well, diminishing their once stately magnificence. The Forbidden City is anything but ancient. It does have some ancient construction that has survived through the ages: mostly metals and stonework. Many wooden doors and ceramic roofs have been replaced, and after several hours walking past the same ornamentation again and again: it can get tiring. Still, there are many wonders to be seen within the expanse of the city. The gigantic central halls are the least of these, though their stonework and the view from the terraces outside is something to be marveled at. The best, and most interesting sights are the side corridors, and the views through closed gates: something that can be a rather tantalizing 'forbidden fruit', if you'll forgive the pun, for those who enjoy putting their eyes to keyholes. After several hours, one's feet are sore (if you walked there), one's mind is bored with the repetitive gold-and-red designs, and one is ready to go. Take the subway home.